Los Angeles, California — Juan Cortes has hung the flags of the United States and Mexico outside his mechanic shop in Los Angeles as he celebrates the return of the FIFA World Cup to Southern California after 32 years.

Despite his love of the game and the tournament, Cortes will not attend a single World Cup fixture in the football-mad metropolis, which is hosting eight matches – including USA’s opener against Paraguay on Friday – a few kilometres from his business.

Exorbitant ticket prices have pushed World Cup games out of reach for die-hard fans like Cortes, who will instead settle for watching the action on the screen.

“I wish they would help us out – so people like us, who are into the game and have the passion for their teams, were able to go see our idols play,” Cortes told Al Jazeera as he stood with the two flags behind him and cars whizzing past on the busy road in front of him.

“It’s not every day I get to see a World Cup in my country.”

Tickets for the home team’s opening game were still available on resale platforms less than 12 hours from kickoff.

Despite the heartache, the Mexican-American fan is ecstatic about being incredibly close to the action and was thrilled to have seen the Paraguay team bus drive past his shop earlier.

“Every four years, I get excited. I know my Mexico can make it further than the World Cup before, and if they don’t make it far, I know my US [is] right behind them,” he said.

As World Cup fever grips Los Angeles, excitement for the tournament has slowly overcome the controversies surrounding it, including the travel and immigration policies implemented by US President Donald Trump’s administration.

Reminders of the World Cup are everywhere in America’s second-largest city. Local businesses, ranging from bars to skateboard shops and tattoo parlours, are proudly flying the flags of the teams.

‘A class thing’

Late on Thursday, cheering could be heard across Venice Beach in western Los Angeles as South Korea and the Czech Republic faced off in the tournament’s second game in Mexico, with fans flooding bars to catch the action late into the night.

When Mexico beat South Africa in the tournament’s opening game in Mexico City earlier in the day, dozens of proud fans walked around in Mexico’s distinctive green football shirts.

Among them was Francisco Aguilar, a football fan from Texas, who is visiting LA but cannot get tickets for any games.

Aguilar said it was sad that the tournament’s organisers had prioritised profits instead of making the games accessible for the most passionate fans.

“It’s just sad that you can’t go; it’s a class thing,” he told Al Jazeera.

The disappointment hasn’t dampened Aguilar’s anticipation for the tournament and magical on-field action, especially as he wants to see Spain’s young superstar Lamine Yamal play his first World Cup.

Aguilar is also optimistic that Mexico will make a deep run in the tournament on home soil. His prediction for the final is a repeat of the 2022 decider between Argentina and France, terming it a “revenge” match for Kylian Mbappe’s side.

Beyond ticket prices, visa and travel issues in the US have dampened some of the joy around the tournament, fans and activists say.

Last week, US authorities denied entry to Somali referee Omar Artan, who was set to officiate some games.

Iraqi player Aymen Hussein was detained for nearly seven hours after arriving in Chicago earlier this month before being allowed into the country.

In addition, fans from across the world have reported being denied US visas.

Amid the war with Iran in March, Trump said it would not be “appropriate” for the Iranian team to participate in the World Cup, suggesting that they should stay away for “their own life and safety”.

Subsequently, the Iranians set up their base in Mexico, not in the US where all their group stage games will still be played.

In an unusual arrangement, Team Melli, who start their campaign against New Zealand in Los Angeles on Monday, will only travel to the US for their matches and return to the base camp south of the border.

ICE concerns

Another worry for some rights advocates is potential immigration raids in and around stadiums.

The Trump administration has not ruled out deploying Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) to games.

Lisa Walker, an activist with the advocacy group, the Venice Resistance, held a sign featuring a football and the caption “ICE out” at a small protest on Friday.

Walker said people are “really concerned” about ICE raids during the tournament.

She also slammed the Trump administration for its travel bans.

“I don’t see any reason why we should be banning people during the World Cup. I mean, it is the World Cup,” Walker told Al Jazeera, emphasising the international nature of the event.

“It’s just fascism, and I hope this will shed light on what we’re experiencing here in America. I think most people around the world probably already see it. I hope that we can make some changes here soon.”

Jan Wilkinson, an English fan from London, said he did not have any issues coming into the US for the World Cup, but said “it’s not a good look” for the country to turn back people such as Artan the referee.

Still, Wilkinson praised the excitement around the event in the US. “It’s buzzing, absolutely buzzing, great atmosphere so far,” he said.

Politics aside, will England take advantage of the top talent at their disposal and break the curse of faltering near the finish line at major tournaments?

Wilkinson appeared confident.

“It’s coming over. We’ve been saying that for 60 years, but this year it’s coming home,” he told Al Jazeera.